An RV8 Encounter: Communication Without Words

Denny Creek Trail at Brown's Pass

It is in late August. My wife Ute and I stand on one of the many 12,000+ ft peaks of the Continental Divide in Colorado. Looking almost straight down, we see the Cottonwood Pass 300 ft below, where we just started a day hike along the Continental Divide Trail.

The sound of an airplane makes us look up. A dot west of us quickly turns into a single-engine low-wing plane approaching the Cottonwood Pass. In fact, it will fly very near to us since it is just a bit higher than us. To line up with the road crossing the pass, the plane banks 30 deg to the left. We see fuselage, wings, tail feathers; it sure looks like an RV8.

As the plane completes the turn and flies level again, right over the pass and no more than 600 ft away from us, we see the pilot in the cockpit. We raise our arms and wave wildly. The pilot waves back just as enthusiastically, clearly pleased by our greeting. And then, the pilot does a barrel roll, just for us. How nice! Wings are level again for a few seconds, and then we get a second barrel roll! By now, the plane requires another course correction, again done with 30 deg bank, and zooms down the valley out of sight toward Buena Vista, CO.
 
I can imagine the pilot's thoughts. Approaching an alpine pass on a sunny day, with no winds or turbulence, then crossing it less than 1,000 ft AGL is one of the nicest flying experiences. When accompanied by greetings from below, it's even more wonderful. In fact, the pilot enjoyed our greeting so much that he felt compelled to acknowledge it with a short aerobatic performance.

Let me tell a bit about the hike, since it is one of the most beautiful ways to see some of the highest mountains of Colorado. The trail is part of the Continental  Divide Trail and starts at the Cottonwood Pass, which is reached by paved road from Buena Vista. At 12,100 ft elevation, the pass itself is part of the Continental Divide.

There are two ways to follow the Divide from the pass: going south or north. We had hiked the southern route several times, so this time we decided to try the alternative. There are no signs for the trail at the pass, but it's easy to get going. Just follow the early portion of the well-marked South Texas Creek Trail, then after 1/3 mile branch off to the left and climb up to the ridge. The trail along the ridge meanders vertically, so to speak, reaching several peaks of around 12,400 ft, separated by low points at 11,800 ft.

For the entire two mile hike, views into the South Texas Creek valley to the east and into several valleys to the west beckon you onward.

Continental Divide Trail near Cottonwood Pass (photo by Ute)

At the final high point, an incredible vista opens into a number of valleys carved by glaciers. Each one is called a gulch on the map, but they actually are huge valleys.

Since it is late summer, the vast variety of flowers of July is gone and has produced seeds.

Alpine Gold after the bloom

Pasque flower seed heads

But here and there, late bloomers can still be found.

White Indian Paintbrush

Alpine Gold

A nook shields a patch of Colorado Columbine.

Colorado Columbine

There are two other impressive hikes with trailheads on the road from Buena Vista to Cottonwood Pass. 

The first one is the Ptarmigan Lake Trail, a six mile round trip. Here, too, a few flowers still bloom, in particular the Arctic Gentian and the Blue Gentian.

Arctic Gentian

Blue Gentia

If you want to know if it will rain soon, just watch the Blue Gentian. If rain is expected, it will close up. How do we know this? First, we saw it several times since our hikes were sometimes in the rain. Second, the name of the Gentian flower in German is "Enzian," for which in the olden days children learned the following saying: "Wenn der Enzian sich schliesst, ist es sicher, dass es giesst." (If the Enzian closes up, there surely will be a downpour.)

Now and then, red Indian Paintbrush still blooms.

Red Indian Paintbrush

The second hike is the Denny Creek Trail up to Brown's Pass, an eight mile round trip. 

Denny Creek Trail

Along the path, we find Oxeye Susan still in bloom.

Oxeye Susan

So, here is advice for a long weekend: Fly into Buena Vista. The airport is at almost 8,000 ft MSL, but has a 8,300 ft long runway. Rent a car and hike the two mile segment of the Continental Divide Trail starting to the North from Cottonwood Pass. It will be an unforgettable experience.

If you have more time, consider hiking the Ptarmigan Lake Trail or the Denny Creek Trail.

And if you have even more time, there are many more trails waiting to be explored. Ute and I did so during our vacation.  

For these hikes, we move to the Twin Peaks campground halfway between Leadville, CO, and Independence Pass on Colorado Highway 82. Our campsite has a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. Campground hosts Rickey and Vera make the visit most enjoyable.

Our site at Twin Peaks Campground (photo by Ute)

The first hike is in the Maroon Bells area. The main trailhead is reached from Aspen by bus. Unfortunately, low clouds prevent the spectacular morning views.

Maroon Bells, hidden by low clouds

The Maroon Creek Trail climbs gently up to Crater Lake and beyond.

Crater Lake

We hike about nine miles round trip, getting a better view of the Maroon Bells in late afternoon.

Maroon Bells, afternoon

Next we hike the Lost Man Trail up to Lost Man Pass, a six mile round trip. The weather cooperates on the way up. The trail starts at 11,000 ft MSL near the tree line. Douglas firs cling together to support each other during winter storms.

Cluster of Douglas firs, Lost Man Trail

Lost Man Trail

A few flowers are still blooming along the creek.

Aster and White Indian Paintbrush

Queen's Crown

The most difficult hike is up the La Plata Trail. It goes to the top of the 14,343 ft La Plata Peak. 

La Plata Trail

The trail is at times very steep.

La Plata Trail, above tree line

Large thistles grow at high elevation.

Thistle

We decide to stop at around 12,700 ft, which is far above the tree line. We eat lunch and turn back.

And then it is time to go home again, to the hustle and bustle of the big city. On the way back, we realize time and again how wonderful it has been to experience the quietness and solitude of the mountains of Colorado. 

Clarification: Ute and I drove to Colorado from Dallas, since Ute is not a fan of small-airplane travel. But I have flown into Buena Vista and can vouch for it being one of the nicest airports to visit.

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