Colorado and Utah Wonderlands: The Dolores and Colorado Rivers

 

The Dolores River near Dove Creek

The COVID-19 has forced an unwelcome simplification of life style. For example, it has ruled out commercial air travel for the entire family.

As an antidote, daughter Ingrid and I went on a full-day excursion trip with our Zenith 601HDS, with homemade sandwiches for lunch. That way, we traveled quite some distance, but avoided hotel stays and restaurant visits.

All photos of this trip were taken by Ingrid. We mixed in three photos from an earlier trip to add some vistas.

The Route

We start in my daughter's hometown, Albuquerque, NM and head north. The first refueling stop is in Cortez, CO. 

Continuing north, we trace the Dolores River all the way to the Colorado River. Then flying west along the Colorado, we land at Canyonlands airport near Moab, UT for a second refueling.

A final, long leg brings us back to Albuquerque. Below is the portion of the route from Cortez to Canyonlands airport.

Route from Cortez, CO to Canyonlands airport near Moab, UT

Albuqerque to Cortez, CO

Since the trip entails more than 8 hours of flying, we start very early. Indeed, it is still dark when we come to the Double Eagle airport in Albuquerque for the takeoff. A kind attendant turns on the floodlights in the hangar for us. 

Upon me saying, "Sorry about all that electricity spent just for us," he responds, "Don't worry about that at all." 

Preflight check in hangar of Double Eagle airport KAEG

Our plane uses a specialized towbar and cannot be moved with a tug. So, we pull it onto the ramp with manual effort. This is not too difficult since the plane with full fuel weighs only 750 lbs. When the plane is finally on the ramp, the still-hidden sun produces bright yellow and orange colors above the mountains to the East.

Our Zenith 601HDS, N314LB, ready to go 

A few weeks ago we repitched the propeller for mountain flying. Thus, cruise speed is reduced, but even at high elevations the plane takes off and climbs like the devil. 

So as expected, the plane leaps off the runway after a short takeoff run and climbs with 800 ft/min. Right at that moment the sun rises above the mountain ridge to the east.

Flight immediately after sunrise is always wonderful. Today is no exception. The slanting rays of the sun paint the landscape with dark orange and brown colors and produce long shadows. The air is smooth as glass. 

In the distance, Cabezon Peak, which is shaped like a head, stands out.

Cabezon Peak

We pass Mesa Verda National Park, but due to the altitude cannot discern any cliff dwellings.

Mesa Verda National Park, NM on the right

We crest the mountain ridge shown in the above photo and immediately start a steep descent to the airport of Cortez, CO.

Approaching Cortez, CO airport

Cortez to Canyonlands Airport

In the past, several mountain streams combined near Cortez to create the Dolores River. A dam now collects that water and provides most of it for irrigation of vast fields north of Cortez. Just enough water is released from the dam so that there still is a Dolores River. 

Proceeding north, we fly along the canyon carved by the once-mighty river. Near Dove Creek, the river performs a 180-degree turn.

The Dolores River turns 180 deg near Dove Creek...

Gradually the canyon becomes deeper.

Dolores River Canyon ...

Then the river performs an amazing zigzag dance.

Meandering Dolores River

The Dolores River merges into the Colorado River in an arid landscape. 

Flying along the Colorado, we pass Arches National Park and approach Moab, UT.

Colorado River near Moab, UT ...

We land at the Canyonlands airport, KCNY. This entails some complications: The airport has no control tower, yet the flight operations are a crazy-quilt mixture of:

- United Airlines jets

- private jets and fast turbine planes

- helicopters

- general aviation planes ranging from twins down to our tiny homebuilt plane

If that wasn't enough, a Cessna takes off with parachute jumpers, rises high above the airport, and has the jumpers come down right next to the runway.

Many airplanes do not fly the traffic pattern, but simply announce a long final and come in. For example, "Canyonlands traffic, X on 3 mile final for runway 21."

On the day of our arrival, the winds are shifting so that within minutes the runway selection switches from runway 21 to runway 03 and then back to 21. 

As a result, one plane announces "3 mile final for runway 21," while the next plane is on "3 mile final for runway 03."  

Suddenly, there is a voice that, without identifying itself, says, "Do not cross the airfield at midpoint." The reason becomes clear when three minutes later parachutes come down next to the midpoint of the runway. 

Now suppose there is some problem developing on the runway. An incoming plane cannot land, initiates a go-around, and thus flies parallel to the runway. And then jumpers come down exactly at that time. An awful scenario.

With some trepidation, we manage to land, refuel the plane at the self-service station, and have lunch and veggies out of our ice box in the shade of a hangar.

Refueling at Canyonlands Airport

Return to Albuquerque

We take off with some difficulty: We squeeze in between landing of a United Airlines jet using a long final for runway 03 and another plane announcing a long final for runway 21. This works since we also use runway 21 and are off within 30 seconds, long before the second plane arrives.

In the afternoon sun, the sandstone formations along the Colorado River take on ever-darker hues of orange, red, and brown. 

Close to Moab are evaporation ponds next to the river, operated by the Moab potash mine. They look like abstract art inserted into nature, a powerful demonstration of mankind taking over nature.

Evaporation ponds of Moab potash mine

During the return flight to Albuquerque, the air is bumpy due to late afternoon thermals. We climb to 11,500 ft to get into smoother air for a more enjoyable ride. 

While the sun is slowly sinking toward the horizon, the smoke in the air produced by fires in California reduces visibility evermore. 

It's as if the views are gradually turned off, indeed as if nature is telling us to stop. And so we do at the Double Eagle Airport, having experienced a long day of wonderful views.
 

And lastly: You had never heard before about the beautiful canyon created by the Dolores River? No wonder. There is not a single road along or inside the canyon. The only way to experience the beauty of river and canyon is to take at least three separate rafting tours or, like us, fly low and slow.

Have any questions or feedback about this post? Please share your thoughts in the comments.